The train trip from London to Paris was on my bucket list for some time. I do like airports and airplane flights, but if I could choose a way to travel I would always prefer trains. It’s just more charming, and quite often more convenient because train stations are usually centrally located. Eurostar trip through La Manche channel didn’t disappoint. Easy, almost unnoticeable- it makes it hard to believe you are actually crossing country borders. Only 20 minutes or so riding through the tunnel, and you start seeing Fench landscape out of the window. The ticket price varies from 40 to 300 EUR and it’s recommended to book early. Kids younger than 5 don’t need a ticket. I booked the cheapest trip (44EUR, just one seat) and brought our lunch with us. The train was half empty so Leo got had a seat of his own next to the window.
We arrived in Paris just in time for dinner – late night tartare at an outdoor cafe on Montmartre close to our hotel. Four full days in Paris ahead, and I know it won’t be enough, but it’s ok. Paris is always so nice to come back to. My fourth time there, Leonardo’s first. It’s the city where his story began exactly four years ago, and I hope he will grow to love it as much as I do.
First time in years I chose hotel versus AirBnB for our stay in Paris. The decision was purely logical: it seemed like hotels had way more to offer at a more reasonable price. My 3 main requirements were: good location, first floor or elevator, and a bathtub. 4-star hotel in the heart of Montmartre with a bedroom overlooking Sacre Coeur and a bathroom equal in size to that bedroom, plus all this for less than $100/night – well, AirBnB simply couldn’t beat that! Leo dubbed the hotel “a princess house” thanks to Baroque elements of interior design. I was a bit nervous about it… Gilded chandeliers, red velvet with green satin curtains are not exactly my kind of thing when it comes to interior design, but I was curious to try something new. Hey, after all, this is what vacation is about! I couldn’t help but burst out laughing when they handed me the keys from our suite named after Naomi Campbell (it was right next to Cindy Crawford and Madonna). Leonardo pulled out a Polaroid camera as soon as we settled in, and started photographing random corners of the room. He liked it there, somehow even more than our cozy and stylish duplex apartment in London. Sacre Coeur out of our window looked like a postcard, and we could see the famous snow-white Le Petit Train de Montmartre cruising back and forth along the boulevard. Because “sous le ciel de Paris” (under Paris sky) everything seems so charming, even red velvet with green satin curtains.
We spent our first day exploring Montmartre where we are staying. It was Sunday, and narrow cobblestone streets were flooded by locals and tourists mixed together. People carrying fabric totes with baguettes sticking out, having coffee or wine on the sidewalk cafes, strolling through marché aux puces along Avenue Trudaine. At the flea market, we found a cute vintage dump truck for Leo. A kind, smiley vendor, a Spaniard by origin, also gifted him a tiny yellow racing Peugeot which made his day. We headed to a charming playground at Place d’Anvers. It was packed with kids and grownups speaking all different languages. We blended in and felt right at home.
Le petit train de Montmartre is the way to go around the charming neighborhood on the hill, especially when you are traveling with kids. You can board it on Place Blanche right in front of the famous Moulin Rouge (photo tip: There is a fun air vent in front of Moulin Rouge which makes a perfect spot for pictures a la Marilyn Monroe with flying skirt) For just 7EUR (kids up till 5yo are free of charge if they can sit on your lap) this little train will take you all the way up to the entrance of Sacre Coeur. It is also the most appropriate place to listen to Edith Piaf songs and feel overly sentimental about it (yes, you can even hum out loud the famous tune – no one would notice, I promise!)
On the top of the hill, we explored the famous church and then walked the stairs down to the carousel and another cute tiny playground. Leo didn’t even want to take the funicular (another option if you don’t feel like walking) because he loved riding his little cars along the side edge of the stairs, which made a perfect slide for them.
Another place worth visiting with kids on Montmartre is Le Mur de je t’aime – the famous Wall of love where “I love you” is written 311 times in 250 different languages. It gets busy at times with tourists arriving in batches to take photos, but it happened you can always “hide” at a cozy playground next to it – there is a simple slide and a rocker for kids to enjoy while adults are busy with doing their snapshots.
This time in Paris I wanted to explore places I haven’t been yet, but somehow we ended up going to the places I already knew and loved, like Palais Royale. The inner courtyard and gardens is safe for kids to run, as well as the famous black&white Colonnes de Buren make a perfect background for fun jumping photos.
Place des Vosges in the heart of Le Marais is a great example that you see things (and, perhaps, the world) differently when you have kids. I’ve been in that park numerous times in the past and I never ever noticed a children playground there. In my own defense, I must say that whoever designed the park and the playground placement, hid the latter so well as if not to disturb the elegant “grownup” look of the historical square. Slides, swings and climbing ropes are strategically placed along the perimeter of the park, on its very edge, and are completely covered by the low clipped trees (which gives a perfect shade on a hot summer day).
We visited the huge playground in the Jardin de Luxembourg which was excellent, but you do need to pay for the entrance (both for a kid and for a grownup). It’s also really fun watching tiny sailboats at the local pond – reminded me of Central Park in NY.
I personally still prefer Jardin de Tuileries also because of its close proximity to Louvre. Post-Louvre you can make a pit stop at the local playground there – equally wonderful place with a climbing structure, a little merry-go-round, and springy boards.
Center Pompidou is a fun place for both kids and grownups. As usual, we started at the top floor at Le Georges restaurant – for a milkshake and a martini with the best view in town. After this, we explored all the floors going from top to bottom. Kids love the 4th-floor outdoor terrace with Picasso sculptures and a water pad, and it’s safe to let them run there.
I love French food in all its variety, and could eat Madame Croque for breakfast every day *) I think French cuisine is very kids-friendly too and you can always find something of the little ones in any regular menu (in fact, I haven’t seen any kids menus whatsoever) These are few of my favorite restaurants in Paris: Le George (rooftop bar & restaurant at Center Pompidou), Les Philosophes (excellent French food in the heart of Le Marais), La Mascotte (famous seafood in Montmartre), Cafe de Flore (one of the oldest coffeeshops in Paris which was a popular hub of famous writers and philosophers in early 20-30s)
On our last day in Paris we went to a post office to mail some postcards: one for my parents, one for a friend, and one that Leonardo picked for himself. I hesitated for a second but then agreed – after all, who said that you couldn’t send postcards to yourself? Every time you travel you change a little, and you come back home as a different person. Sending your future-self a reminder of a beautiful trip, a little souvenir that you will receive in the mailbox long after your vacation is over, and it surely will make you smile – I fell in love with the idea! 💌
Alas, we had very few days in this magical city this time so we only saw/did:
* The Little Train in Montmartre, Sacre Coeur, Le Mur de Je T’aime
* marché aux puces (local flea market)
* Center Pompidou
* Le Marais & Place des Vosges(stop by for excellent Parisien dinner at Les philosophes)
* Jardin de Luxembourg
* Tuileries & Louvre plaza
These were the things I was planning to see/do, recommended by other friends:
* Eiffel Tower for sunset & picnic on Champs de Mars
* Palais de Tokyo (amazing for both kids and grownups)
* Palais de la Découverte (Science muséum next to Grand Palais)
* Jardin d’Acclimatacion with the little train, petting zoo, “enchanted river” & fun rides (at Bois de Boulogne)
* Monet’s garden at Giverny
* Parc zoologique de Paris
* Bateaux-Mouches boat ride
* Parc de Villette
* Pont des Artes (bring lock & key!)
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